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Outdoor furniture · Guide 111

Build a Slatted Garden Side Table

A low side table with a draining slatted top and a braced frame, sized for ordinary garden-use objects.

24 × 17 × 18 in outsidePlan 4–5 hours

01 / See the shape

View the project

Show a build step

3D model of Build a Slatted Garden Side Table

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Drag to turn. Pinch or use + / − to zoom. The written step covers workholding and tool use.

Build a Slatted Garden Side Table. Check the dimensions and build steps before cutting.

Download full plan PDF

02 / Plan your build

Before you start

A small table beside a chair gives a watering can or book somewhere to go without making the seat arm carry it. This low table uses three replaceable top boards and an open lower frame. It is not a stool, step or support for a heavy filled planter.

Where it goes

A sheltered level hard surface with all four feet bearing; not a slope, deck edge, public seating or a climbing surface.

Footprint: 24 × 17 in frame size; allow room around it to work and for anything that projects.

What to expect

Measure accurately, make supported square cuts and drill clamped joints. Plan 4–5 hours.

A planning estimate for the hands-on work, once the materials are bought and the tools are set up. It has not been timed on a finished build.

Check the spot

A sheltered level hard surface with all four feet bearing; not a slope, deck edge, public seating or a climbing surface.
Measure the usable stock before marking. Keep the assembly area flat and large enough to clamp the work without reaching across a moving cutter.

Stop and check first if…

Stop if a part splits, a fixing strips, or the assembled object rocks. Unload it before opening a joint.
Do not substitute an unknown material section or make the object taller or wider without checking every affected part and joint.

Work safely

Clamp the center bearer securely before drilling through the aprons into its ends. Keep top screw paths away from rail joints and inspect for split end grain.
This low table is not a seat or step. Keep it on a level surface, avoid heavy filled planters, empty it before moving it and remove standing water promptly.

Budget

We have not put a price on this one yet. Lumber and hardware prices change by store and season, so price the list under What you need at your local supplier before you buy.

03 / Gather and cut

What you need

T — Top board

3 pieces

Untreated surfaced cedar 1 × 6, actual 0.75 × 5.5. Buy one nominal 1 × 6 × 8-ft cedar board, actual 0.75 × 5.5 in; cut three 24-inch tops.

Measure your boards before cutting. Build to the finished sizes written here, not the nominal lumber label.

P — Leg

4 pieces

Sound surfaced 4 × 4, actual 3.5 square. One 4 × 4 × 8-ft board.

Measure your boards before cutting. Build to the finished sizes written here, not the nominal lumber label.

L — Front and back apron

2 pieces

Surfaced 2 × 4, actual 1.5 × 3.5. Buy one nominal 2 × 4 × 8-ft board for both 24-inch aprons, both 14-inch ends and the 14-inch center bearer;90 inches before kerf.

Measure your boards before cutting. Build to the finished sizes written here, not the nominal lumber label.

E — Between-apron end rail

2 pieces

Same actual 1.5 × 3.5 stock. Cut from the same 2 × 4 board listed for L; no additional board needed.

Measure your boards before cutting. Build to the finished sizes written here, not the nominal lumber label.

R — Rear racking panel

1 piece

Exterior-rated plywood, actual 0.375 in; keep dry in sheltered use. Buy one exterior plywood panel at least 24 × 24 × 0.375 inches; cut the 24 × 6.5-inch brace from a sound edge.

Measure your boards before cutting. Build to the finished sizes written here, not the nominal lumber label.

C — Center top bearer

1 piece

Same 2 × 4 stock, actual 1.5 × 3.5 in. Included in the board listed for L.

Runs between front and rear aprons beneath the middle of all top boards.

Frame screws

20 items

#10 × 3-in exterior wood screws Buy a pack with at least 20 frame screws.

Use one consistent product and follow its pilot and driving instructions.

Top screws

18 items

#8 × 1.5-in stainless wood screws Buy a pack with at least 18 top screws.

Use one consistent product and follow its pilot and driving instructions.

Rear-panel screws

12 items

#8 × 1.25-in exterior screws Purchase at least 12; keep spare hardware separate from the installed count.

Use one consistent product and follow its pilot and driving instructions.

Cut list

Piece	How many	Cut length	Note
T — Top board	3	24 × 5.5 × 0.75 in	Finished length × width × thickness; square ends unless the detail says otherwise.
P — Leg	4	17.25 × 3.5 × 3.5 in	Finished length × width × thickness; square ends unless the detail says otherwise.
L — Front and back apron	2	24 × 3.5 × 1.5 in	Finished length × width × thickness; square ends unless the detail says otherwise.
E — Between-apron end rail	2	14 × 3.5 × 1.5 in	Finished length × width × thickness; square ends unless the detail says otherwise.
R — Rear racking panel	1	24 × 6.5 × 0.375 in	Finished length × width × thickness; square ends unless the detail says otherwise.
C — Center top bearer	1	14 × 3.5 × 1.5 in	Finished length × width × thickness; square ends unless the detail says otherwise.

Tools

Tape or rule, square and sharp pencil
Clamps, a flat bench and sacrificial backing
Suitable guarded saw for the specified stock
Drill/driver, depth stop and bits matched to the chosen screws
Fine abrasive and a dust brush
Two 0.25-inch top-spacing blocks;3/16-inch clearance bit; countersink bit; vacuum

Protective gear

Eye protection during cutting and drilling
Hearing protection and dust collection appropriate to the actual tools
Closed footwear; keep loose clothing and gloves away from rotating cutters

04 / Put it together

Build steps

01
Check where the table will stand
Choose a location beside—not in front of—the walking route. Check that the low 18-inch height suits the intended objects. Exclude use as a seat, step or base for an unassessed heavy planter.

Open drawing full size ↗

Check the finished working height and the four foot positions before cutting. The complete object here is a size reference.

Check: The full 24 × 17-inch footprint sits on a level surface with clear access.
02
Cut the legs and frame
Cut four 17.25-inch legs, two 24-inch aprons and two 14-inch end rails. Match leg lengths from a common stop and reject splitting at each top connection area. Cut one additional 14-inch center bearer C from the same 2 × 4 stock.

Open drawing full size ↗

Cut and label the legs and structural rails. The top boards and rear panel are not shown as already fitted.

Check: All four legs match and frame sections match the listed actual dimensions.
03
Dry-fit the frame around the legs
Place end rails between aprons to form 24 × 17 outside. Fit legs inside each corner with all tops at 17.25 above the floor starting edge. Clamp on a flat surface before drilling. Clamp C between the aprons with its left face 11.25 inches from the frame left edge and its top flush with the rails.

Open drawing full size ↗

Dry-fit the rails around the legs and bring every top bearing surface to the same level.

Check: Rail and leg tops form one bearing plane and diagonals agree.
04
Mark frame and center-bearer screws
On each apron mark leg columns 3.25 and 20.75 inches from the left end, holes 1 and 2.5 inches below its top. On end rails mark columns 1.75 and 12.25 from the front end, holes 1.5 and 3 inches down. For C mark two screws through each apron at x 12 inches, heights 1 and 2.5 down. Clamp and verify every path.

Open drawing full size ↗

Mark the separate rail patterns while the parts are loose. Perpendicular screw heights must not be interchanged.

Check: Twenty frame screws have solid receiving wood and perpendicular leg screw paths are staggered 0.5 inch.
05
Fasten the frame
Drill product-matched pilots and rail-only clearance holes, then install 20 #10 screws with controlled torque. Keep clamps on until the corner seats. Recheck feet and squareness halfway through.

Open drawing full size ↗

Fasten the clamped frame at the marked locations. Only the structural frame is assembled at this point.

Check: No leg-top split, rocking foot or forced frame twist remains.
06
Fit the rear brace panel
Cut the 24 × 6.5 × 0.375-inch rear brace. Position its bottom 7.25 inches above the floor, directly against the rear-leg back faces and below the apron. Clamp square. From the PANEL left edge mark columns 3.25 and 20.75 inches. On each mark heights 0.75, 1.75, 2.75, 3.75, 4.75 and 5.75 inches above the panel bottom. Drill panel clearances and leg pilots, then install twelve #8 × 1.25-inch screws.

Open drawing full size ↗

The rear brace touches the rear legs below the apron. Its screws enter those legs, not the unsupported space below the apron.

Check: Both rear leg faces are in direct contact with the panel; all screws enter supported wood and the frame remains square.
07
Cut and lay out the top boards
Cut three 24-inch boards at actual 0.75 × 5.5. Place them across the frame with two 0.25-inch gaps, using clean spacers. Confirm the 17-inch total depth and inspect for rocking or cup.

Open drawing full size ↗

Prepare the loose top boards, keeping their length, face orientation and edge spacing distinct from the frame.

Check: All three boards bear on the frame and both drainage gaps remain equal.
08
Fasten boards over three support lines
Mark screw columns x 0.75, 12 and 23.25 inches from the top left end. On each column mark y 2.25/4 for the front board, 7.25/9.75 for the middle, and 13/14.75 for the rear, measured from the COMPLETE top front edge. Drill 3/16-inch top clearance holes and receiving pilots into the end rails or C. Fit 18 #8 × 1.5-inch screws, six per board.

Open drawing full size ↗

Use each top board’s own pattern and verify the receiving rails below. Warm boards are the pieces being attached.

Check: All top screws enter a bearer with at least 0.75 inch from its end joint; the largest clear span is 9.75 inches.
09
Ease edges and test placement
Remove spacers, smooth hand-contact edges and clear debris from the gaps. Place the empty table at its intended site and check all four feet before adding light ordinary objects.

Open drawing full size ↗

Ease the exposed edges and inspect fasteners before placing objects on the surface.

Check: The empty table sits flat and no sharp head or splinter remains.
10
Inspect after weather exposure
Keep the top clear of standing water and inspect the brace, feet and board ends after wetting. Unload before replacing a board. Preserve the same section, gaps and fixing locations in any repair.

Open drawing full size ↗

Use and maintain the finished object within the written limits. Keep water contained and inspect the support assembly.

Check: The table remains a table; no seat, step or heavy-planter use is introduced.

05 / Keep it sound

Care

After the build

Keep objects centered over support and clear drainage gaps after use. No rated load is established by these dimensions.
Bring the table into dry storage where prolonged weather would degrade its plywood brace or joints.

Check it each season

Inspect connections and hand-contact edges before use. Unload before tightening or replacing parts; replace a cracked member rather than adding a screw beside the crack.
Brush off debris, wipe only as needed and dry with air around the joints. Store dry when the item is not in use.

If something looks wrong

Table rocks: Check floor flatness and leg length; do not hide a split leg with a loose wedge.
Gaps close after wetting: Unload and inspect wood movement; restore the designed spacing without splitting boards.
Rear panel loosens: Stop using the table until brace screws/panel are repaired.
A top board develops a deep split: Replace the complete unloaded board with a matching section and pilot schedule.

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